ear Rough Guide,

On p. 82 of your "Southwest USA" guide, you write of Gallup, New Mexico, "cheap motels make it a handy overnight pitstop, but there's nothing to hold your interest."

Hmm. Rough Guide, we like your chatty and unpretentious approach to travel writing. We like it better than Lonely Planet, which we feel has been kind of coasting on its name, or Fodor's or God forbid, those Dummy guides. (We have to admit to a fondness for Moon Handbooks, however. We're sure you understand.) But we feel you have missed a few things about Gallup, New Mexico. Allow us to share.

First, may we suggest a visit to the El Rancho,"Home of the Stars," the extravagantly refurbished hotel/diner built by the brother of DW Griffith to cater to the growing celebrity traffic of mid-century New Mexico. Like the highway it was built on -- the old Route 66 -- the El Rancho is not just nostalgic but also beautiful in its own right. Consider the El Rancho motto: "The comfort of yesterday, the convenience of tomorrow." How can you resist that, Rough Guide? You cannot. Hey, if the El Rancho was good enough for the Duke, it's good enough for you. And when you visit, try the Burt Lancaster chicken sandwich. It's a winner.

After a trip to the El Rancho, drive a bit down Route 66, past the irresistible signage -- all those brightly lit triangles and ovals and swooshes -- until you reach Kristy's. It's a coffee shop. The kind of coffee shop that calls you from the road, even though you're not hungry or thirsty, and whose obvious Fifties kitsch interior inspires you to wear the cowboy hat in your back seat, a gift from a friend, only when you get inside there are real cowboys and truckers so that you look like a total and complete poser but what the hell. The interior of Kristy's is all orange and pink. Does that sound gross to you, Rough Guide? Maybe. Let us assure you: It's a beaut.

Have we even mentioned the copious public art of Gallup? Like the rollercoaster sculpture just off the highway. A rollercoaster! Now, we know Gallup isn't everyone's cup of jo, but wouldn't you agree, Rough Guide, that it deserves a little more than your curt dismissal?

We knew you would.

Thank you for your consideration,

The Management

(Dear Reader: Sarah Hepola will be camping in the Grand Canyon for a week. We will return this Friday. Thank you for your consideration, The Management.)